Wii Booster

[vagrant]

I already explained the range problem multiple times in your own thread. Hence why I kept talking about TRIANGULATION.

And all that means is that I am either getting shittier range from my nintendo one then they were, or I am getting better range from my nyko one then they did.

There are various variables that could be the reason such as lighting.

[Ads]

[ciper]

"we were able to conclude that the Nyko Wireless Sensor Bar gave us slightly better tracking ability at the 25-foot range."
You think this means 2x range? Got me. ciper explains the range problem:

I agree. Do you know any good tutorial of making custom IR sources?

Not really. Most of the walkthroughs incorrectly focus on creating an exact replica of the original sensor bar. I created my own custom measured bar for my projector using a protractor and string. I can't remember the angles at the moment but its easy to find out. The documentation from Nintendo gives a specific range for the Wiimote, 6-8 feet I think, so I chose the middle of that range. I then held a string from the two IR LED in the sensor bar to that distance and measured the angle. I then did the reverse with my new distance for the projector and the sensor bar had to be lengthened by only a couple inches.

[iceblade]

Not really. Most of the walkthroughs incorrectly focus on creating an exact replica of the original sensor bar. I created my own custom measured bar for my projector using a protractor and string. I can't remember the angles at the moment but its easy to find out. The documentation from Nintendo gives a specific range for the Wiimote, 6-8 feet I think, so I chose the middle of that range. I then held a string from the two IR LED in the sensor bar to that distance and measured the angle. I then did the reverse with my new distance for the projector and the sensor bar had to be lengthened by only a couple inches.

I'm actually thinking of making 2 separate IR emitters so I can change the distance between whenever I want. I found this but the guy says that the range isn't still good enough. However I think this is pretty much what I'm looking for. What do you think?
Or I could bet 2 wireless sensor bar's and but tape over each one's 1/2 emitters :P

[ciper]

That video was pretty bad but thats the basic idea. What do you mean when you say two seperate IR emitters?

My sensor bar had 5 IR led on each side for increased brightness and I could turn the sensitivity down all the way.

[iceblade]

That video was pretty bad but thats the basic idea. What do you mean when you say two seperate IR emitters?

My sensor bar had 5 IR led on each side for increased brightness and I could turn the sensitivity down all the way.

I just mean having two separate IR emitters. just imagine your sensor bar cut in half so that you could freely move the left and right side. So actually I don't like a sensor bar but two strong IR emitters (like yours) which I can freely move.
IF its possible can you post some guidelines on how to make this. (ie;e how you made yours, which parts did u use etc)
thanks

[ciper]

Oh you mean an "adjustable" sensor bar. Good idea.

I bought a package of 10 high brightness IR led from Ebay, a high wattage resistor that I had spair (a small unit would work fine) and used a C battery holder. The only problem with the simple layout is that the LEDs are ran constantly and waste battery. It would be far better to pulse them but I was lazy and cheap.

edit: Here I found a page that explains why you should include the resistor. Too many of the home made sensor bars do not have one http://www.coilgun.info/levitation/infraredemitter.htm

[dogon1013]

I have also been thinking about an adjustable width sensor bar. I hate that Raving Rabids makes you stand very close to the projected screen.

I have been thinking of making some periscopes to make the existing sensorbars IR lights effectively farther apart to prove that it will work. (like 2 submarine persicope on their side)

[RJU690]

Okay all of this is very confusing so let me get this straight:

1. The sensor bar has two sets of IR sources on each side.
2. It's best if the IR sources are really bright, have a lot of power, there are more IR lights on each set, and that there are no other sources of IR light, correct?
3. Somehow you need to triangulate yourself (the player) with each set of IR lights.

My questions are:

1. What's the formula for the triangulation part? I doubt both IR sources and the player have to be equal distances apart so it forms an equalateral triangle.
2. What components would you recommend for the IR sources that are powerful enough?
3. Does anyone know of a tutorial for making an effective sensor bar?

[mym6]

Not really. Most of the walkthroughs incorrectly focus on creating an exact replica of the original sensor bar. I created my own custom measured bar for my projector using a protractor and string. I can't remember the angles at the moment but its easy to find out. The documentation from Nintendo gives a specific range for the Wiimote, 6-8 feet I think, so I chose the middle of that range. I then held a string from the two IR LED in the sensor bar to that distance and measured the angle. I then did the reverse with my new distance for the projector and the sensor bar had to be lengthened by only a couple inches.

This guy speaks the truth. By making the IR sources farther apart, it fools the remote into thinking it is closer to the screen than it really is. There is a trade off of course. If you set it too wide then you limit how close to the screen you can get. But if you're going to build a custom wii sensor bar that is wider then you should already know this.

[mym6]

Okay all of this is very confusing so let me get this straight:


The sensor bar has two sets of IR sources on each side.

It's best if the IR sources are really bright, have a lot of power, there are more IR lights on each set, and that there are no other sources of IR light, correct?

Somehow you need to triangulate yourself (the player) with each set of IR lights.

My questions are:


What's the formula for the triangulation part? Do both IR sources and yourself have to be equal distances apart so it forms an equalateral triangle?

Does anyone know of a tutorial for making an effective sensor bar?

Contrary to the name of the device, the "sensor" is nothing but a set of IR lights. Most everyone knows this now. All of the work is being done by the remote and the sensor bar is a completely passive device.

What ciper is referring to is triangulation which refers to the systems ability to figure out how far away from the screen you are. Now in reality, real triangulation requires 3 points of reference, hence the name, but the remote is able to compensate by "seeing" the IR light. Because it can see the light, it can see how far apart the two light sources are. The closer together they are, the farther the remote is away from the screen, and the farther apart the light sources are the closer it is to the screen. Combine this with the ability to see if the lights are to the left/right or up/down and it can tell approximately where it is "pointing" at the screen.

The problem you have at a distance farther than 8' is that now the IR sources are so far apart that it's difficult for the remote to determine of it's a single light or still two lights; this affects the remotes ability to rotate AND keep the cursor in the right spot. Also, once you get too far back, the rate at which the IR lights grow closer together as you move back slows down, further limiting the remotes ability to determine that it's distance from the screen is increasing or decreasing.

If you want to see how this all works, just go into the wii settings menu and adjust the sensitivity. Move the remote farther away, move it left and right, then move far away. You can see right on the screen what the remote sees.