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1080p/i?

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by SensesFail, Jan 6, 2008.

  1. SensesFail

    SensesFail WiiChat Member

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    whats the difference? i know 1080p is better, i think, but how much? i ask because my hitachi 52" T.V. doesnt seem to support 1080p, it goes black when i switch it to that, but 1080i works fine, and looks great.
     
  2. [DT]

    [DT] Gearhead Surf Coder

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    There's a great thread about this in the main forum area, something like "I got a new HDTV" - loads of good info (you can pretty easily discern the BS from the facts).

    Very briefly I = Interlaced, P = Progressive (think non-interlaced)

    When you talk about a TV generating X frames per second, in a P based set, an entire frame reference is drawn for each of those. So for example a set that generates 30 FPS Progressive is drawing 30 FULL frames every second.

    An Interlaced set - using the same metric - draws 1/2 of the frame during the first 1/2 of frame reference, and the other 1/2 during the later part.

    So it's generating 60 *fields* per second, to make up the 30 frames per second. Since a single viewable frame is drawn in two parts, there can be a little flicker as the first 1/2 of the frame fades (while the 2nd 1/2 is being drawn). Under fast motion, there can also be some leading/trailing edge artifacts because of the same reason.

    In the end analysis, you're still talking about 1080H lines, but two different ways to render them. In general, a P scan produces a more solid frame, but in motion, it's barely detectable.
     
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  3. Sovieto

    Sovieto Banned

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    to sum it all up: 1080p is better, its the highest resolution HDTVs can go right now, and 1080i is identical to 720p from what I can tell.
     
  4. [DT]

    [DT] Gearhead Surf Coder

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    1080 != 720 :)

    (I'm not sure where you got that...)
     
  5. Sovieto

    Sovieto Banned

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    ???:scared:
    dont quite understand your post but if you're wondering where i got that 1080i/720p comparison.. i got it from my own HDTV, from switching between the 2.
     
  6. SensesFail

    SensesFail WiiChat Member

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    thanks for the help DT, i understand a little better now.

    so basically the images will LOOK the same but when watching you may see the occasionaly blur/flicker type thing? i just want to make sure im not missing out on any noticeable graphical changes, my TV is about 3-4 years old, just checking it's not outdated yet lol.

    okay and i have another question, my NON HDTV has component hook up in the back, it does make it look a little sharper when playing 360/PS3, but what is the difference? does it display 480i or p? it's a 27" Sanyo flat screen TV if that helps.
     
  7. [DT]

    [DT] Gearhead Surf Coder

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    Do you have an LCD, Plasma or DLP? (i.e., not a CRT based set?)
     
  8. [DT]

    [DT] Gearhead Surf Coder

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    Yeah, 1080 is 1080, just the rendering method changes - *maybe* some flicker, but most of the differences are very slight. Our older Toshiba in the bedroom is a 42" CRT based projector, and it still looks amazing (it supports 1080i). In fact it looks better on SD than the newer Sony LCD!

    It may support 480P (same logic as I vs. P above) - component interfaces isolate the Chroma and Luma so there's not as much "crosstalk" in the signal - usually this means cleaner color (less cross saturation and such). Always worth doing it when possible. We have an older Pioneer Elite P-scan DVD player that looks amazing on the Toshiba running 480P via component.
     
  9. Sovieto

    Sovieto Banned

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    LCD, its probably just because its a 27" one, too small for me to notice a difference? :sick:
     
  10. [DT]

    [DT] Gearhead Surf Coder

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    Yeah, you're right, though a 27" is a pretty nice set, so I wouldn't sweat that too much (especially if you're not sitting 12 feet away). There's a couple of things at work:

    1) LCD's are fixed resolution, so the "native" rez, is the only output spec - however it can take in different source signals - so your 720's and 1080's all come out to X (whatever your native mode is).

    Now you would think that an input signal that matches the native output would be optimum, but there are a surprising number of people who say they prefer a downsamples 1080 (I think it's more the variation in source quality, like an MEPG2 vs. an MPEG4 transport, but go figure).

    The other thing is +where+ the conversion takes place - we can set our STB to pass through the signal (in which case the set converts it) or allow the STB to convert it to the native set spec. The Sony, does a better job of converting non-native signals for sure. The Toshiba seems to be a wash.

    2) You really don't start seeing the difference in 720 vs. 1080 till you get to larger sets - there's no set standard, but I'd say that 42-50" is the breakpoint.
     
  11. SensesFail

    SensesFail WiiChat Member

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    ill have to check out 720 vs. 1080 after work tonight, see what the difference really is.
     
  12. FRuMMaGe

    FRuMMaGe Waluigi's #1 Fan!

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    As [DT] said, the thread I started has some very useful information from some of the forum experts.

    Here is it
     
  13. SensesFail

    SensesFail WiiChat Member

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    thanks frummage.
     

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